T model Ford who was born in the1920s, is one of the last blues men who has a direct link to the original Delta Blues. He has had a long and eventful life. He was sentenced to 10 years on a chain gang for murder but only served two and only started playing the guitar at the age of 56. Listening to this 88-year-old man, I could hear the sound of the raw vibrant blues of Charley Patton and Robert Johnson mixed with the influence of the later Chicago masters. T Model played with his 12-year-old grandson on the drums. This was a remarkable feat for a lad his age. Last night was a much more sober and reserved evening. The electricity had gone and the audience was much more subdued. We were all energised for a short moment when Bilbo Walker made a brief appearance in the audience. It was still a great night and I was sad to leave Red and his Juke Joint behind for the last time as we left Clarksdale to follow the old river once more.
It’s rather a cliché to say that we drove into Memphis on a sunny spring Sunday morning with Elvis classics pounding out of the car stereo but we did. Suspicious minds sounds so good when you are cruising up Elvis Presley Boulevard on your way to Graceland. I had heard that Graceland was small and a bit of a disappointment. Neither of us were disillusioned, it was a great day. Only Americans can manage these venues so well and the Elvis tour was a memorable experience. Elvis was beautiful in every way. Great looking guy, great voice, generous spirit and a gentleman. This comes through during the tour. He was at heart a simple country boy who was imprisoned behind the image and lonely. You begin to sense his unhappiness in those last few years. The tour of the main house ends at the graves of Elvis and his parents. It’s a really emotional moment for most of those visiting. When I was at primary school in West Wales, you were either an Elvis fan or a Cliff fan. Please forgive me Elvis but I was part of the Cliff gang for a while.
Beale Street was the melting pot where many musical influences collided. The blues from the delta met jazz from New Orleans and poor white music (which would later be known as Country Music) Those who remember the old Beale street will tell you little remains of the original street full of juke joints and brothels. It was here that classic blues, jug bands and honky-tonk flourished. We tend to think of Chicago catalyst for Rhythm & Blues and Rock & Roll, but none of this would have happened without Memphis and Beale Street. Memphis gave us Soul Music (Stax), Rock & Roll (Sun Records) and much more but that is another story and we are off to explore that tomorrow.
There are similarities between Beale and Bourbon Streets, both streets have a buzz about them and they are full of noise and neon lights at night. Beale however doesn’t feel as relaxed as the Big Easy. We spent our evening at BB Kings Blues Club. The food was the best Southern food we have tasted so far and the music, played by their resident band was high voltage, virtuoso, Electric Texan Blues/Rhythm & Blues. We were not expecting too much but we left very satisfied and full. We have a lot to do tomorrow!
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