Rest, Relaxation and the Beach

Cliff Walk at La Jolla

We are indulging in a little rest and relaxation after our long journey and doing what Californians do by enjoying the sunshine and the beach culture. One one the most delightful treats is taking breakfast overlooking the sea followed by a cliff walk along this beautiful coast. And a little shopping therapy!

This is just below where we had breakfast. It doesn't get a lot better!

One of the most enduring memories of the diverse wildlife on this coast will be the Pelicans that are found along the whole coast. I just love the way that they fly is such tight formation, hovering just above the waters edge. They are developmentally primitive birds that need to dry their plumage in a similar way to out Cormorants in the UK.

 "Strictly Come Flying"

Pelicans and Cormorants at La Jolla

On one of our walks on the cliff edge, we came across what must be one of the coolest Bridge Clubs in the world.

This one is for Jacqui's Bridge Group

The Torrey pine is a rare species of pine tree, which used to be common on this part of the coast. The pine is unique in that it has adapted to the dry, sandy and rocky soils found on this area of the coast. These small gnarled stunted trees have been under threat for the last 100 years from human encroachment and their use for firewood. An extraordinary man called Guy Fleming (1885-1960) started in 1919 to campaign to save the trees north of La Jolla, which had become the only surviving grove on the mainland of the USA. A sign at the State Park states “Guy Fleming is to Torrey Pines what John Muir was to the High Sierras”. Fleming’s work eventually lead to the establishment of the Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve where a trail bears Flemings name. he went on to head the State Parks Department in California and establish many other parks and protect crucial rare habitats.

 The coastal Torrey Pine

He once said, ““This will be your park. Its object will be to teach the conservation of all of nature’s works, to use them and enjoy them in such a way that all of the people for all of the time may know of their beauty and usefulness”

Guy Fleming (1885-1960)

 These rare trees have managed to survive in this arid environment

 On one of the trails overlooking the sea

The colours seen in the eroded soft Sandstone along the coast

Jacqui and I walked a number of trails at the park. We have hiked in 4 State parks across the length of the West Coast in very different habitats and climates. From temperate rain forests to arid pine groves. It’s only on trips such as this that one can appreciate the range and importance of climate, the environment and the diversity that exists in our world. We had our first swim in the Pacific Ocean.

 Walking along coast

The San Diego Museum of Contemporary Arts hosts a branch I La Jolla. Their recent exhibition is called “Behold America”. It uses 20^th and 21^st century works by American Artists from the their collection to analyse how Americans see their own country, their people and their culture. Great exhibition in one of the galleries bathed in a fantastic white light. You can see what Hockney saw in California now.

Deanna Thompson 2011

Sorry not a great photo but she paints deserted homesteads. These are emotive images for Americans. Its a huge picture with massive impact.

Mark Dion 1999-2000

He contrasts the destruction of nature against the tradition of American landscape painting

Sam Durant: Southern Hospitality 2010

Nancy Rubins: Pleasure Point 2006

Finally I was fascinated by this church. Interested to hear what you thing of the strange gothic experience.

The Last Miles are the Slowest

The Gardens of the Getty Villa

Lion attacking a horse from the Capitoline Museum in Rome: Greek sculpture & Roman trophy

It seems strange sitting in the basking sunshine of California, listening to the apocalyptic predictions of the impact of Hurricane Sandy as it batters the other side of this continent. We visited the Getty Villa first thing yesterday morning before the main crowds arrived. The Villa is dedicated to JP Getty’s fabulous collection of Greek, Roman and Etruscan antiquities. The news form the hurricane together with suggestions that the American Empire is on the wane gives one an eerie feeling when looking at the remnants of once wonderful empires that were meant to last forever. Coupled with the almost hedonistic and wasteful lifestyle that many of us live, leads one to think that one day in the very distant future a similar museum may hold fragments of our present civilisation where the certainty that we know will be replaced by the imprecise science and speculation of archaeology.

Whatever, I was expecting something more on the kitsch side but was delighted and astonished by the villa, the setting and the collection. The cream walls of the villa sparkled in the morning light. The house and the gardens have been constructed to give an impression of a Roman Villa at the height of Rome’s power and influence. It does this with ease and any personal cynicism disappeared at the entrance. The collection is significant. The bulk of the objects are Roman or Roman copies of Greek sculptures.  It is so well laid out and each room follows a specific and easy theme. I just wish that this British Museums extensive collection was as well laid out and labelled at this. I have identified some exhibits that shone and I have shown them below.

The killing of the Minotaur by the Athenian hero Theseus (as Ariadne looks on!)

The suicide of Ajax after a dispute over dead Achilles’ armor. (Such a delicate picture)

A roman copy of Venus (Aphrodite)

This is a roman copy of a sculpture of the goddess by the famous Greek sculptor Praxiteles in 350 BC This was the first full-length nude female sculpture in Greek art and became a cult. Many copies were produced. One story tells of a worshiper who was so entranced by her beauty that became transfixed and would not leave the sanctuary!

A really modern muse

A beautiful and sad image from the front of a Roman-Egyptian Sarcophagus

Two girls talking: Could be out of a Jane Austen novel

A scene from a balcony reminiscent of Goya or Manet

A wonderful Roman head

JP Getty's favourite and most valued greek sculpture of Hercules. Perhaps it tell su something about the man!

Back on the road again. Its Sunday and this is a coast road. There are few gaps between urban conurbations as you move down this coast. The whole coastal area has been reduced to a string of beaches and a network of roads that connect them together. There appears to have been a vast urban expansion along this coast, evidenced by complex after complex of condominiums, housing estates and Malls. One can imagine how many times you have to stop at traffic lights.

By the time arrived in Long Beach we were exhausted, despite the fact that we had miles and miles to go!

Ghastly and tedious

I wanted to see the Queen Mary, which was retired to Long Beach as an attraction and a hotel when she was decommissioned in 1967. I believe that my uncle Will (my Dad’s brother), was the radio operator on her for a while. We took some time to find her but there she was. Dwarfed by larger cruise ships but just as elegant as she was when I saw her in Southampton when I was 9. 
There must be so many stories to go with this old lady. She must have carried so many people during the wars and in peacetime across the Atlantic.
We hope to stay on her on our way back to LA.

"Still elegant after all these years"

I must admit that we eventually gave in and took the Interstate. Still plenty of buildings but thank god, no traffic lights. We shot down 405 through the expanding Orange County, past Irving and the John Wayne Airport at Irving. No time to stop but the Duke was a huge part of our lives when we were kids. Don’t know why it’s called after him.

La Jolla Cove

We switched onto Interstate 5, which now incorporates and replaces Route 1. Such a change from that small winding, torturous and narrow road that we joined in Northern California. On one occasion, I counted 14 lanes. Our road has been swallowed!

We are staying at La Jolla (pronounced La Holla) just outside San Diago.

Our journey is almost done. We are just 10 miles away from the city and will go there on Wednesday after doing some serious beach chill in this beautiful place.

The sun goes down on La Jolla Beach

All that glitters is…..

Chasing the dream

Always a place for a Welshman

I had to ask someone to move as they were standing on Greta Garbo

People were begging for all sorts of reasons: At least she was honest

This is meant to be the town of dreams and tinsel but dreams have a habit of not materialising. The many “down and outs” sleeping rough and begging on Hollywood Boulevard are witness to this. Of all the places we have visited on our long trip, this was the one that left us the most uncomfortable.

We approached Hollywood via Sunset Strip. Many of the iconic cool places and clubs have gone. Billboards now predominate, as it becomes an advertising venue. The 1950s Whiskey A-Go-Go is still there but looks shabby and sad. This area became the hip place to visit the 50s and early 60s but it started to run down as new styles, cultures and technologies have changed the way that we enjoy ourselves.

I am so glad that we did our own thing and didn’t take an organised tour. The boulevard experience was awful as various unlicensed and uncontrolled tour operators, Darth Varders, Charlie Chaplins and Superheroes vied for your dollars as they tried to sell you their version of the dream.

Another reckless Superhero

One superhero was so rude to Liz because he thought that she was going to take his picture without paying him. He remonstrated that we were stealing his image and this was even worse as he was a retired Vet. He attitude left an enduring stain on our the visit. We called it “The scrap with a prat” 

Some dreams are worth having

Some people don't mind having their pictures taken

We were keen to get to the beach and as a result missed our drive down Laurel Canyon, which leads off Hollywood Boulevard. Many rock stories and histories go with this place where some of the great names of West Coast and American music lived. Ah well, we will need to visit another day. Just a short plug for my favourite Laurel Canyon album by John Mayall called “Blues from Laurel Canyon” Mayall was the major influence on my musical tastes at school. All the great names played with the Bluesbreakers at some time. This album represents the time when he visited LA and hung out with bands such as Canned Heat. Take a look at it. It was one of my first albums.

 John Mayall

Blues from Laurel Canyon

Venice beach on the other hand is exactly what it is. No pretentions, its busy, lively and colourful. It certainly was on Saturday afternoon when we visited. The whole of the city seemed to be there. Some were just promenading in that particular ”looking beautiful” Southern California way, others were biking, skateboarding, dog walking, body building etc…. To many, the place is over the top but it’s there and in your face.

 Venice beach as it is

No lifeguards, no swimmers but plenty of huts 

Sunday on the beach

We watched a tiny kid (perhaps 8 or 9) doing the most extraordinary feats at the skateboard park. She put the bigger kids to shame and was the toast of the beach. I wonder whether ­her dreams will be realised. She certainly deserves it.

Gone surfing

I wanted to visit Venice because this is where the Doors started. The story goes that it was here that poet and singer Jim Morrison (a resident of the Venice cannals) and Ray Manzarek invented this original and “break on through band called the  Doors. With Robbie Krieger and Densmore they changed the face of West Coast Rock for ever. The Jim Morrison’s mural at Venice is one of the enduring images of Morrison worldwide. It so sad that he had such an inglorious death in Paris. He didn’t deserve it.

The Jim Morrison mural at the Beach 

Jim Morrison 

The Doors

Venice Beach has been the home of many great actors, entertainers and musicians. They include Mae West, WC Fields, Stan Lauel, Dennis Wilson, Janis Joplin, Charlie Chaplin, Buster Keaton, Arnold Schwarzeneggar, Orson Wells and many more. Go to Danny’s Deli and Restaurant where they are all depicted in murals on the walls.

 Jim Morrison and Janis Joplin at Danny's

Danny's take on Botticelli's Birth of Venus

The most intriguing item that we saw the medicalisation of Venice Beach. I need say no more Take a look at this!

 GPs in Venice can be very helpful

Why not try some Botox when you are at the beach.

We called at Venice on the way to take Martin and Liz to the airport. We are bereft without them. They were great travelling companions. And not a cross word! Well a few problems with the heating system in the car…..and occasionally filling with fuel.

A sad farewell

I mentioned that we were staying at the end of Route 66. This is another road and another road trip. I did follow the road until it met Route 1 at the crossing of Lincoln and Santa Monica Boulevards. There is a sign on the Santa Monica Pier but the great road’s end is rather ignominious.

Ignominious end to the great "Mother Road"

The Official end of Route 66 on Santa Monica Pier