All that glitters is…..

Chasing the dream

Always a place for a Welshman

I had to ask someone to move as they were standing on Greta Garbo

People were begging for all sorts of reasons: At least she was honest

This is meant to be the town of dreams and tinsel but dreams have a habit of not materialising. The many “down and outs” sleeping rough and begging on Hollywood Boulevard are witness to this. Of all the places we have visited on our long trip, this was the one that left us the most uncomfortable.

We approached Hollywood via Sunset Strip. Many of the iconic cool places and clubs have gone. Billboards now predominate, as it becomes an advertising venue. The 1950s Whiskey A-Go-Go is still there but looks shabby and sad. This area became the hip place to visit the 50s and early 60s but it started to run down as new styles, cultures and technologies have changed the way that we enjoy ourselves.

I am so glad that we did our own thing and didn’t take an organised tour. The boulevard experience was awful as various unlicensed and uncontrolled tour operators, Darth Varders, Charlie Chaplins and Superheroes vied for your dollars as they tried to sell you their version of the dream.

Another reckless Superhero

One superhero was so rude to Liz because he thought that she was going to take his picture without paying him. He remonstrated that we were stealing his image and this was even worse as he was a retired Vet. He attitude left an enduring stain on our the visit. We called it “The scrap with a prat” 

Some dreams are worth having

Some people don't mind having their pictures taken

We were keen to get to the beach and as a result missed our drive down Laurel Canyon, which leads off Hollywood Boulevard. Many rock stories and histories go with this place where some of the great names of West Coast and American music lived. Ah well, we will need to visit another day. Just a short plug for my favourite Laurel Canyon album by John Mayall called “Blues from Laurel Canyon” Mayall was the major influence on my musical tastes at school. All the great names played with the Bluesbreakers at some time. This album represents the time when he visited LA and hung out with bands such as Canned Heat. Take a look at it. It was one of my first albums.

 John Mayall

Blues from Laurel Canyon

Venice beach on the other hand is exactly what it is. No pretentions, its busy, lively and colourful. It certainly was on Saturday afternoon when we visited. The whole of the city seemed to be there. Some were just promenading in that particular ”looking beautiful” Southern California way, others were biking, skateboarding, dog walking, body building etc…. To many, the place is over the top but it’s there and in your face.

 Venice beach as it is

No lifeguards, no swimmers but plenty of huts 

Sunday on the beach

We watched a tiny kid (perhaps 8 or 9) doing the most extraordinary feats at the skateboard park. She put the bigger kids to shame and was the toast of the beach. I wonder whether ­her dreams will be realised. She certainly deserves it.

Gone surfing

I wanted to visit Venice because this is where the Doors started. The story goes that it was here that poet and singer Jim Morrison (a resident of the Venice cannals) and Ray Manzarek invented this original and “break on through band called the  Doors. With Robbie Krieger and Densmore they changed the face of West Coast Rock for ever. The Jim Morrison’s mural at Venice is one of the enduring images of Morrison worldwide. It so sad that he had such an inglorious death in Paris. He didn’t deserve it.

The Jim Morrison mural at the Beach 

Jim Morrison 

The Doors

Venice Beach has been the home of many great actors, entertainers and musicians. They include Mae West, WC Fields, Stan Lauel, Dennis Wilson, Janis Joplin, Charlie Chaplin, Buster Keaton, Arnold Schwarzeneggar, Orson Wells and many more. Go to Danny’s Deli and Restaurant where they are all depicted in murals on the walls.

 Jim Morrison and Janis Joplin at Danny's

Danny's take on Botticelli's Birth of Venus

The most intriguing item that we saw the medicalisation of Venice Beach. I need say no more Take a look at this!

 GPs in Venice can be very helpful

Why not try some Botox when you are at the beach.

We called at Venice on the way to take Martin and Liz to the airport. We are bereft without them. They were great travelling companions. And not a cross word! Well a few problems with the heating system in the car…..and occasionally filling with fuel.

A sad farewell

I mentioned that we were staying at the end of Route 66. This is another road and another road trip. I did follow the road until it met Route 1 at the crossing of Lincoln and Santa Monica Boulevards. There is a sign on the Santa Monica Pier but the great road’s end is rather ignominious.

Ignominious end to the great "Mother Road"

The Official end of Route 66 on Santa Monica Pier