Walking Amongst Giants

As soon as you cross the border into California, one becomes aware of a change in the landscape. Almost immediately you notice that the road is lined by tall redwood trees. The landscape is now dominated by the “Coast Sequoia”, one of the oldest and tallest living organisms in the world and it is the moist, misty temperate climate that nurtures them and promotes their growth. Only 4% of the original redwood forests (the old growth) that covered almost all of Northern California and parts of Southern Oregon remain. Some have been replanted (new growth) and those lining 101 down into Crescent city are more recent.

Crescent City is America’s Tsunami capital. It was destroyed by a giant tsunami in 1964 following an earthquake in Alaska and it suffered some damage and one fatality from the Japanese earthquake in 2011. The town itself is rather non-descript (except a picturesque lighthouse in the harbour) and is only worth a mention as somewhere to stay when driving down the coast. We stayed in a new hotel where considerable savings had been made by dispensing with the services of an interior designer. Fascinating combinations of colour and texture rejoice in this celebration of alternative taste and kitsch.

 Northern Californian Coast

The stunning coastal scenery continues but it is enhanced by the sight of redwoods and spruce dominating the landscape even down to the water’s edge. The wooded hillsides are covered with the early morning “breath of the dragon”. Beautiful beaches abound with abundant birdlife such as Cormorants, Pelicans, Gulls, waders and raptors. The sheer emptiness of the landscape gives it both scale and majesty.

Pelicans on the beach

We take an alternative route to an old logging port called Samoa. This must have been tough redneck country in its prime. The old cookhouse used to feed hundreds of workers everyday. The industry has gone but the cookhouse has become a quirky restaurant where customers sit on long tables and are served breakfast, lunch and dinner from a menu that has no choice. You take what you are given, no small portions, no sharing plates and everyone loves it! We caused some confusion when we arrived at breakfast time, couldn’t understand anything that the waitress said and just asked for coffee. Despite everything, a great place to visit.

Martin and Liz at The Samoa Cookhouse

Eureka has become quite a trendy place. It was once a prosperous Victorian port but suffered like many industrial places on this coast. I saw some amazing buildings along the waters edge where the Adams family or the Munsters would feel very much at home. Scotia was one of the last company towns in America. It was whole owned by a lumber company which went bankrupt in 2007.

A small car in the "Avenue of the Giants"

By now, 101 has become a freeway but one can take a 32 mile detour along the old road. This road called the “Avenue of the Giants” is part of the Humboldt Redwoods State Park. It is probably the finest collection of Coastal Redwood  primeval forest in the USA. If nothing else, everyone should take this trip.

Tree Huggers!

John Steinbeck once said “ The Redwoods once seen, leave a mark or create a vision that stays with you always……from them comes silence and awe”

“The most irreverent of men in the presence of redwoods goes under a spell of wonder and respect”

 We are so small

I don’t think that I can say anything more profound than that. One just has a reverence for something so old, so big and so majestic. I think that this is a memory that will stay with me for the rest f my life. We were all in raptures as we walked on one of the many trails leading off the avenue. The great trees are shrouded in silence and the forest floor is occasional bathed in light when it escapes through the vast canopy. Yes we have become true tree-huggers and the sworn enemy of the loggers!

Jacqui measures a tree

John measures up to a giant 

Yet more tree-hugging 

Driving through a tree

At the end of the avenue we say a sad farewell to our old faithful 101 as we leave it to tale Highway 1, which will take us the rest of our way to San Diego. A sad moment but also an achievement having already driven more than 900 miles.

A sad farewell to 101

After a torturous but beautiful journey over the hills our new companion leads us on to a bright, breezy Northern Californian coast bathed in a warm evening light.

The coast bathed in the evening light

We arrive in Mendocino on a beautiful evening.