Thursday, 18 October 2012

Our Oregon Trail


The King Columbia River

We crossed into Oregon over the great Columbia River after dark last night. It was not until morning that we realised the scale and majesty of this great river and the vast bridge that crosses it.  The bridge, finished in 1966 linked the Washington section of Route 101 to the remainder of the West Coast highway.

Crossing the great river

I remember that one of the first musicians that I listened to when I was a boy was Lonnie Donegan.  My brother is 7 years older and I used to listen to his records all the time. I always loved Donegan’s “The Grand Coulee Dam”. It was many years later when I learnt that the original song was written by one of the master songwriters of American folk music, Woody Guthrie. He described the majestic and grand Columbia River.  I always wanted to see it and it lived up to its reputation as it passes into the Pacific Ocean  at Astoria.

Master Song writer Woody Guthrie

We drove back across the river today, just to get an idea of the scale in daylight. Its rather sad but I played Bob Dylan’s version of the song as we crossed the bridge. My three companions thought me a little touched!


The first transcontinental expedition to the Pacific Ocean, known as “The Lewis Clarke Expedition” after its two leaders Meriwether Lewis and William Clark came to this place in 1805. The expedition lasted 2 years and the explorers and their team met considerable hardship and danger. During the second winter of the journey they camped on the South Shore of the Columbia River, building a fort called Fort Clatsop at a spot, which is now known as Astoria.



Lewis and Clarke

Astoria is the oldest US settlement on the West Coast of the USA. It was established by John Jacob Astor in 1811. His Pacific Fur Company failed to make a success of the settlement and the enterprise was taken over by the British until it was ceded to the USA under the terms of the Oregon Treaty in 1848.

John Jacob Astor


The city fathers have built a column on the high ground overlooking the city. The 360 degree view from the top is breathtaking. We could see both Mount St Helens and Mount Rainier in the far distance.

View from the Astoria Column

The Oregon coast is fabled for its beauty and wildness. 101 hugs Oregon’s coastline  for over 300 miles surprising the driver with sudden spectacular vistas as they emerge through gaps in the tall trees that line the road . Parts of this journey can match some of the spectacular coastal scenery seen further down the coast in Southern California.

Skeletons on a skeleton coast

We visited a number of beaches today. Cannon Beach is known for the Haystack Rock that dominates the area and we joined the many people taking a leisurely stroll along this beautiful beach

Haystack Rock, Cannon Beech

A gentle reminder that we live on a fault line!

Depoe Bay is known for the whales that inhabit the coast at this time of year. We believed that the sea was too rough but just as we were about to leave we suddenly saw a solitary Grey Whale just outside the forest of Giant Kelp.

Depoe Bay: Looking for Whales

We are half way down our Oregon Trail with hopefully more thrills to come despite the threat of bad weather.

Rouge Public House, Astoria

P.S. We visited a great pub and micro-brewery in Astoria last night. It’s called The Rouge Ales Public House and is based in an old tuna factory on the Columbia River. It sells some great beer and the atmosphere is worth sampling. Special thanks to Donald who looked after us and exposed us to some great beer and food.

Grand Coulee Dam: Arlo Guthrie

Grand Coulee Dam: Lonnie Donegan

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